天の湯

Traditional Japanese bath houses or sento usually open around 4pm. If you fancy a soak before then, you will need to search out what is called a "super sento."


Larger and more up-market, drive-in super sento have replaced the smaller, family-run bath houses in places like Nagoya. Only really Kyoto among Japanese cities has a large number of smaller, more intimate sento.

A good example of a super sento is Ten no Yu up the hill to the left from the Ueda subway station on the Tsurumai Line. There is a spacious rotemburo (outside bath) and sun lounge for topping up the tan and Vitamin D level, two saunas, a massage parlor and jacuzzi.


An early morning soak and sauna is a great way to shake off any hangover and leave you feeling much happier about life.

Ten no Yu
Tenpaku-ku, Ueda 1-703
Tel: 052 807 1123
Admission 700 yen
Map of Ten no Yu

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銭湯のネオン

Coming back from a party in north Kyoto, we came upon this wonderful neon sign.

The picture at right is seen from the rear, which means that the kanji is inverted.

Jutting out of the second story of a building on Kitaoji Dori, not far from the Kyoto Botanical Gardens, it alerts one to the small public bath (sento) tucked into a nearby side street.

The reading of the neon character is "yu" - ゆ - which is one way to read the first of the two characters 湯 in public bath.

To see the same sign from the front - and therefore in its correct form - look at the photo below left.

The warmth and simplicity of the sign beckons one to the bath house.

It is old and ordinary. No fancy baths, just one story, a beat beat up: perfect on a cold night.


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船岡温泉京都

Built in 1923, Kyoto's Funaoka Onsen is one of a few remaining public baths that have not changed in a significant way or been knocked down.

In spite of the spread of home bathrooms in the 1970s and 1980s, Japanese public baths have held on. Their numbers have declined considerably, but for many the nearly scalding water, the many types of baths (hot baths, medicinal baths, electric baths, cold baths, jet baths, outdoor baths, hot spring type baths, etc.), and the communal feel of getting naked with a bunch of strangers for the purpose of cleaning--ensure that a handful of baths will survive.

Most of those are newer, multi-story baths, often with other facilities. Some, though, are the old traditional bath houses.

The best-known of the latter in Kyoto is Funaoka Onsen (Funaoka hot spring). The main reason for this is the amazing carvings on the ceiling and walls of the changing rooms.

In addition, there is a sauna, several types of baths, and a small outdoor bath with a garden (rotenburo).

How to bathe

Pay as you go in. 350 yen for adults. Towels and toiletries are available at the counter for a small fee (most bath houses will have soap and shampoo inside the bath for no charge; Funaoka does not); it is of course ok to bring your own supplies. Be sure to go into the correct changing room (女＝women, 男＝men).

Undress, store your clothing in a locker, and enter the bathing area. Bring a small towel.

Sit in front of one of the shower heads and faucet. Wash yourself before you get into the large baths. Rinse your body well. Then enter the bath for a soak. Never ever wash inside the large soaking baths; only wash outside the bath.

Repeat.

Most public baths will have many types of baths, and often there will be a sauna. You can stay as long as you like.

Last, dry yourself well before returning to the changing room.

Funaoka Onsen

82-1 Minami-Funaoka-chō, Murosaki no Minami
Kyoto, 26 603-8225 Japan
+81 75 441 3735
Hours: 4pm-12pm; closed Tuesdays
Fee: 350 yen

Bus: From Kyoto Station, bus 206 to Kurama Guchi Station. 5 minute walk.

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