御所の紅葉

On a recent bike trip into the center of Kyoto, we cut through the Imperial Palace en route to the Shijo area.

Under clear blue skies, the many deciduous trees were displaying brilliant reds and yellows and oranges.

One tree in particular caught the eye.

A massive ginkgo tree, a lean yellow rocket enveloped in a field of green pine, was stunning.

Middle-aged men with huge cameras slung around their necks converged on the tree.

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京都御所特別公開

To mark the twentieth anniversary of the ascension of the current Emperor, the Kyoto Imperial Palace has thrown open its gates to visitors.

What is known as "Gosho" in Japanese is a massive park just north of downtown that contains the former royal residence. It was the imperial family compound for more than 500 years until 1869 when the royal family decamped for Edo (Tokyo).

Normally, the palace is open only on New Year's Day. (The park itself is open 365 days of the year, twenty-four hours a day.)

The grounds within the palace are spacious and filled with many buildings, most of which were rebuilt in 1855 following many fires.

The structures range from Heian to Muromachi in design.

For the anniversary, many imperial items are on display, including painted screens, fabrics, etc.

Moreover, on the afternoon we went, men in period costume were playing kemari, a soccer-like game.

Entrance is free, and the grounds so large that in spite of many other visitors on the Sunday we visited it never felt cramped.

This Tuesday is the final day.

Details

November 1 - November 10
9 am - 3:30 pm (last admittance; you will be asked to leave at 4:30 pm)
No charge

Public Transportation

Karasuma Subway Line from Kyoto Station to either Marutamachi or Imadegawa Station.


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京都御所の秋

If you were to look at a map of Kyoto, or see the city from a bird's eye view, there would be a massive slab of green just north of downtown. The massive slab is the park where, for roughly 1,000 years lasting until 1868, Japan's Emperors lived.

Kyoto Gosho, the Imperial Palace, is a huge park that is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

These two facts distinguish it from Tokyo's Imperial Palace - where the present Emperor, his family, and entourage now live - which is open only on New Year's Day.

Another difference is that Tokyo is heavily guarded while Kyoto Gosho is only lightly patrolled. A police car or two meander slowly around the grounds every hour or so.

At night, it is quiet and safe and nearly empty.

In addition to the Emperor's former residence, the Kyoto State Guesthouse (where visiting VIPs stay), and other traditional buildings, there are tennis courts and baseball fields.

Gosho is also popular for birders, for "hanami" (cherry viewing) parties, and the fall colors.

Last Sunday, we took a bike ride around the massive grounds. It was a picture perfect late fall, early winter morning.

Photographers and walkers and a few tourists were out in force.

The top picture is of the length of a wall, looking north, of the former imperial residence.

The lower picture shows a gate on the east side, around the corner from the top.

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